Do I need new copper piping when replacing an old AC?

Not always. If the old pipes are the right diameter and in good condition, they can be reused after flushing and vacuuming. But if the copper is thin, kinked, or has leaked before, replacing it is cheaper in the long run. The technician inspects the existing lines and decides with you before starting.

How long does split AC installation take?

A standard split installation with existing piping takes about 2 to 4 hours. If the job needs new copper runs or wall chasing, it can stretch to a full day depending on the length of the path and the number of units.

Can the outdoor unit be installed on the roof, far from the room?

Yes, but the distance and height difference between the two units have limits set by the manufacturer, typically up to about 15 to 25 meters in length and 5 to 10 meters in height. The longer the run, the more refrigerant and insulation are needed, so ask the technician about your model's limits before mounting.

Does an inverter AC need a different installation?

The steps are mostly the same, but inverter units are more sensitive to installation quality: vacuuming the circuit, clean pipes, and stable voltage matter more than with conventional units. Some models also need surge protection or a breaker with specific ratings listed in the unit's manual.

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WhatsAppAC Installation: Right Capacity and Location Guide

Before Installing Your AC: Choosing the Right Capacity and Location for Your Room

Before you install a new AC: how to size the unit for your room, where to place the indoor and outdoor units, and the installation mistakes that cost you later.

Our technician mounting a split AC indoor unit on a wall with a drill and spirit level

By هيثم للتكييف · Published on 6 September 2026 · Last updated 11 September 2026

Before you install a new AC, three decisions shape your comfort and power bill for years: the right capacity for the room, and where the indoor and outdoor units sit. As a rule of thumb, each square meter needs about 600 to 700 BTU with standard ceilings, and unit placement affects air distribution and energy use as much as the machine's power. This guide covers what to decide before installation day: capacity, placement, and the mistakes whose bills arrive months later.

Choosing the Right Capacity (BTU)

The working rule used in Saudi Arabia: about 600 to 700 BTU per square meter of floor area, assuming a standard ceiling (around 2.8 to 3 meters) and reasonable insulation. Multiply the room's area by this figure for an approximate size, then weigh the notes below:

A 12 m² room: about 12,000 BTU, a 1-ton unit.
An 18 m² room: about 18,000 BTU, a 1.5-ton unit.
A 24 m² room: about 24,000 BTU, a 2-ton unit.

These numbers are a starting point, not a final decision. Top-floor rooms with sun-baked roofs and large west-facing windows need more; good insulation and double glazing reduce the load. Oversizing is no luxury either: an oversized AC cycles off before removing humidity, leaving you cold and clammy, while an undersized one runs nonstop without reaching the set temperature. The technician confirms the final size during a site visit, since he sees the ceiling height, windows, insulation, and occupancy.

Where to Place the Indoor Unit

The indoor unit's position decides how cool air spreads, and machine power cannot fix a bad position later. Before the bracket goes up, check these points:

Balanced air distribution: push air toward the seating and living area, and avoid mounting the unit directly above the bed; direct airflow on sleepers causes headaches and forces you to switch the unit off at night.
Away from heat sources: keep clear of strong lamps, televisions, and frequently opened doors, or the sensor reads higher than the real room temperature and over-runs the compressor.
Clear of curtains: a long curtain blocks air circulation and confuses the sensor; leave enough distance or shorten the curtain.